There’s joy, from great food to the pandemonium of Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest, and serenity, in the shade between live oaks, or watching fireflies on Bayou St John 169 restaurants worth breaking your diet for, 7 places to procure voodoo dolls & love potions, 5 day trips to plantations, swamps and zydeco joints, 2 weekends of foot-tapping, Jazz Fest fun, 1 Fat Tuesday Special color feature on Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest Comprehensive listings Top Sights in full detail Coverage Planning chapters, French Quarter, Faubourg Marigny, Bywater, CBD, Warehouse District, Garden, Lower Garden, Central City, Uptown, Riverbend, Mid-City, the Tremé, Day Trips from New Orleans, Understand and Survival chapters